...or does one really have to pretty much disassemble the frame of a vintage BMW motorcycle in order to remove a dead battery? Because that's what I just had to do. Took more than an hour and got a bit harrowing. For example, two large bolts protrude within the frame so much that they completely block the battery from being moved. Okay, so let's remove them. Except that they hold the two major sections of the frame together, front to rear. When your bike starts to collapse upon itself a little, you notice your pulse-rate more than usual.

This is not to mention that one has to unfasten the battery tray to allow the battery to tip backwards (so it can slide up), remove a variety of brackets in order to unfasten the battery tray, remove the side panels so that one can access the bolts that hold the tray, and remove half the wiring harness so that one can slide the battery out. Oh, and to actually extract the battery from between the frame rails, one must use a pry bar, because the battery is physically wider than the space through which it must pass. Now I think I have a better image of childbirth.

Seriously? This is the famed German engineering which has won BMW so much acclaim? Hmph. Well, at least the battery is out and charging, on the off chance that it's still functional despite only showing 6.72 volts. However, even if it does hold a charge, I'm not sure I will re-install it, because I don't want to try to reverse the process, nor deal with this again in a few years. Time for a smaller yet more-powerful, modern battery.

Chris
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From: [identity profile] tully01.livejournal.com


That "famed German engineering" has more to do with precision manufacturing tolerances than with ease of repair, doncha know. It's also geared to keeping German mechanics very lucratively employed. ;-)

I'm replacing the smooth-wheel idler pulley and belt tensioner on my Dodge (manufactured when owned by Daimler) right now with grooved ones and a two-sided-groove Gates belt so that I don't have to re-install the serpentine belt in the rain or snow every time a drop of water splashes on it...as it did twice this weekend. Both shop and manual tell me that re-install can't be done without removing a wheel and a wheel-well splash panel and accessing it from the side. Having done it roadside so many times with a 15mm socket and a short cheater from above, I beg to differ with their official pronouncement.

From: [identity profile] cba1282zyx.livejournal.com


I can't wait to read what you have to say about putting the battery back in.

From: [identity profile] adammaker.livejournal.com


You should not have needed to do that.

If you had to remove those bolts, than some 'prior owner' likely put in longer bolts than needed on some prior rebuild.
-
I have a battery recommendation, if you want it.

From: [identity profile] mckitterick.livejournal.com


I would love to use a smaller, more-powerful battery - especially one of those non-spill types. If you have a rec for one that'll power a big bike like this, I'm all ears!

From: [identity profile] adammaker.livejournal.com


I just had a thought, what was the make and model of the old one?

From: [identity profile] amjhawk.livejournal.com


One pretty much has to disassemble the frame of a vintage BMW motorcycle in order to remove a dead battery.

Yeah, you must have missed something - 'tis common knowledge. Diane's even scoffing at your ignorance.

:P

From: [identity profile] madmatmax.livejournal.com


There is an episode of myth busters where they had to jack the car up and take the front tire off to get the battery out. All of that seems excessive...

From: [identity profile] mckitterick.livejournal.com


Jeremy's car is like that. We also have to remove the inner fender.

WTF?
.

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